Shimla
The 'summer capital' of British
India sprawls along a crescent-shaped ridge at an altitude of over 2100m
(6890ft) in southern Himachal Pradesh. This was the most important hill station
in India before Independence, and the social life here in the summer months when
the Brits came to escape the torrid heat of the plains was legendary - balls,
bridge parties and parades went hand in hand with gossip, intrigue and romance.
Today, the officers, administrators and lah-di-dah ladies of the Raj have been
replaced by throngs of holidaymakers, but echoes of Shimla's British past remain
strong. The famous main street, The Mall, still runs along the crest of the
ridge and is lined with stately English-looking houses. Christ Church,
Gorton Castle and the fortress-like former Viceroyal Lodge reinforce
the English flavour.
When you've done the obligatory
stroll along The Mall dreaming of Kipling, Burton and Merchant-Ivory, it's worth
exploring the narrow streets which fall steeply away from the ridge to colourful
local bazaars. There's also an interesting walk to Jakhu Temple,
dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman. It's located near the highest point of the
ridge and offers fine views of the town, surrounding valley and snow-capped
peaks. Other scenic spots nearby include the 70m (230ft) high Chadwick Falls,
the picnic spot of Prospect Hill, and Wildflower Hall - the site
of the former mansion of Lord 'Your-Country-Needs-You' Kitchener. The ski resort
of Kufri is just 15km (10m) east, although snowfalls have been so paltry
recently that there are plans to suspend tourist operations. If there is snow,
the slopes are suitable for beginners and anyone with a decent plastic bag and a
thick pair of trousers. Snow is most likely between January and February.
Shimla is not as well connected
by air as other destinations in the Himalayas althouth there are a couple of
companies that will fly you out. The lack of air power is more than compensated
by the number of trains and buses. Three types of bus - public, private, and
those from the Himachal Pradesh Tourist Development Company (HPTDC) - connect
Shimla to Delhi, and they run pretty much every day. Shimla's so-called toy
train is still big enough to get you to Kalka in the north, after which you can
change to the relatively large and comfortable New Delhi Queen which runs on
down into New Delhi.
Jaipur
The capital of Rajasthan is
popularly known as the 'pink city' because of the ochre-pink hue of its old
buildings and crenellated city walls. The Rajputs considered pink to be a colour
associated with hospitality, and are reputed to have daubed the city in
preparation for the visit of Britain's Prince Alfred in 1853. This tradition and
Jaipur's welcoming, relaxed air continue to this day.
Jaipur owes its name, its
foundation and its careful planning to the great warrior-astronomer Maharaja Jai
Singh II (1699-1744), who took advantage of declining Moghul power to move his
somewhat cramped hillside fortress at nearby Amber to a new site on the plains
in 1727. He laid out the city's surrounding walls and its six rectangular blocks
with the help of Shilpa-Shastra, an ancient Hindu treatise on architecture.
Today Jaipur is a city of broad
avenues and remarkable architectural harmony, built on a dry lake bed surrounded
by barren hills. It's an extremely colourful city and, in the evening light, it
radiates a magical warm glow. The city now has 1.5 million inhabitants and has
sprawled beyond its original fortified confines, but most of its attractions are
compactly located in the walled 'pink city' in the north-east of the city. All
seven gates into the old city remain, one of which leads into Johari Bazaar
- the famous jewellers' market.
The most obvious landmark in
the old city is the Iswari Minar Swarga Sul (the Minaret Piercing Heaven)
which was built to overlook the city, but the most striking sight is the
stunning artistry of the five-storey facade of the Hawa Mahal, or Palace
of the Winds. The palace was built in 1799 to enable ladies of the royal
household to watch street life and processions, and is part of the City Palace
complex which forms the heart of the old city.
Numerous international airlines
are based in Jaipur Towers, while for domestic flights it's easier to book
through any of the big travel agents. Daily flights to Delhi are availble and
most continue on to Mumbai via Jodhpur, Udaipur and Aurangabad. The Rajasthan
State Transport System covers Rajasthan's major cities, as do the privately
owned deluxe services. Most of these places can also be reached by train.
Udaipur
The most romantic city in
Rajasthan, built around the lovely Lake Pichola, has inevitably been dubbed the
'Venice of the East'. Founded in 1568 by Maharana Udai Singh, the city is a
harmonious Indian blend of whitewashed buildings, marble palaces, lakeside
gardens, temples and havelis (traditional mansions). It boasts an enviable
artistic heritage, a proud reputation for performing arts and a relatively
plentiful water supply, all of which have helped make it an oasis of
civilisation and colour in the midst of drab aridity.
Lake Pichola is the city's
centrepiece and it contains two delightful island palaces - Jagniwas and
Jagmandir - that are the very definition of Rajput whimsy. The former is
now an exquisite luxury hotel. The huge City Palace towers over the lake
and is bedecked with balconies, towers and cupolas. It contains a museum, some
fine gardens and several more luxury hotels. Other attractions in Udaipur
include the gates to the old walled city and its lovely alleyways; the fine
Indo-Aryan Jagdish Temple, dating from the mid-17th century; and the
lakeside Bagore ki Haveli, once a royal guesthouse, but now a cultural
centre.
Despite the long list of sights
and attractions, the real joy of Udaipur is finding a pleasant lakeside
guesthouse, scrambling up to the roof and watching the activity at the ghats,
listening to the rhythmic 'thwomp!' as washerwomen thrash the life out of their
laundry, and sensing the gentle changes of light on the water as the slow days
progress.
Indian Ailines has daily
flights to Delhi, Jaipur, Mumbai and Aurangabad. Freqent state-owned buses run
from Udaipur to other regional centres as well as to Delhi and Ahmedebad. If you
bus it, choose the express, otherwise it will take forever to reach your
destination. Lines into Udaipur are currently metre gauge only. They are
scheduled to be converted to broad gauge, but nobody is really sure when this
will happen. It's quicker in most cases to catch a bus. Taxis can take you to
regional areas, but practise your negotiation skills and haggle down the price a
bit before you jump in.
Mysore
This charming, easy-going city
has long been a favourite with travellers since it's a manageable size, enjoys a
good climate and has chosen to retain and promote its heritage rather than
replace it. The city is famous for its silk and is also a thriving sandalwood
and incense centre, though don't expect the air to be any more fragrant than the
next town.
Until Independence, Mysore was
the seat of the maharajas of Mysore, a princely state covering about a third of
present-day Karnataka. The Maharaja's Indo-Saracenic Palace is the town's
major attraction, with its kaleidoscope of stained glass, ornate mirrors, carved
mahogany ceilings, solid silver doors and outrageously gaudy colours.
The Devaraja Fruit &
Vegetable Market, in the heart of the town, is one of the most colourful
markets in India. The other major attraction is the 1000-step climb up nearby
Chamundi Hill, which is topped by the huge Chamundeswari temple. The
stairway is guarded by the famous 5m (16ft) high Nandi (Siva's bull) carved out
of solid rock. The 10-day Dussehra Festival in early October culminates
in a spectacular procession of richly caparisoned elephants, liveried retainers,
cavalry, brass bands and flower-bedecked images of Hindu deities.
There are no flights to Mysore,
leaving the bus and train as the only options. Every 15 minutes a bus to
Bangalore hurtles out of the starting blocks like a bat out of hell, as do a
number of other services going to regional areas including the Bandipur National
Park. A number of private buses wil take you at a far more sedate pace to
Mumbai, Goa, Chennai and Hyderabad. There are rarely long queues to book a fare
at Mysore station and there are four daily express trains to Bangalore, plus the
air-con high-speed Shatabdi Express which departs at 2.10 pm daily except
Tuesday. The Shatabdi continues on to Chennai.
Kochi (Cochin)
The port city of Kochi is
located on a cluster of islands and narrow peninsulas. The older parts of the
city are an unlikely blend of medieval Portugal, Holland and an English country
village grafted onto the tropical Malabar Coast. Down near the waterfront you
can see St Francis Church, India's oldest; a 450-year-old Portuguese palace;
Chinese fishing nets strung out past Fort Cochin; and a synagogue dating back to
the mid-16th century. Ferries scuttle back and forth between the various parts
of Kochi, and dolphins can often be seen in the harbour. Most of the historical
sights are in Fort Cochin or Mattancherry. Budget accommodation can be found in
mainland Ernakulam.
Indian Airlines has daily
flights to Bangalore, Mumbai, Delhi, Goa, and Chennai. If flying is outside your
budget, there's a whole bevy of buses that leave Kochi at regular intervals and
fan out in every direction except seaward. You can easily get to any of the
outlying regions either by state-owned or privately owned bus, but there are no
advance reservations. Turn up, join the scrum, and hope for the best, which in
this case would be a seat. Failing this, try the railway station which has
trains zipping up the coast to major destinations on a daily basis.
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