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India's major international
airports are Mumbai (Bombay), Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai (Madras)and a newly
constructed international airport at Kerala. Flights from Europe tend to arrive
in India in the early hours of the morning, which can be inconvenient if you
don't have reserved accommodation or don't like tramping around unfamiliar
cities in the dark. Delhi is the cheapest place to buy air tickets in India,
followed by Kolkata and Mumbai. International flights to neighbouring countries
can be very cheap: especially between Kolkata and Dhaka (Bangladesh), Delhi and
Karachi (Pakistan) and Tiruchirappalli and Colombo (Sri Lanka). A new
international airport near Kochi in Kerala is due to open soon. The departure
tax on flights to Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Nepal is approximately
US$5, but to other countries it's US$10.
The most popular overland
routes between India and Nepal are Birganj-Raxaul Bazaar, Sunauli-Bhairawa and
Kakarbhitta-Siliguri. If you're heading from Kathmandu or Pokhara to Delhi or
elsewhere in north-western India, then Sunauli is the most convenient entry
point; to reach Kolkata or most of eastern India, Birganj is the best place to
cross the border; and to get to Darjeeling, it's easiest to go via Kakarbhitta.
It's fairly easy to travel between Kolkata and Dhaka overland. The only border
crossing currently open between India and Pakistan is between Lahore and
Amritsar. This crossing can be done either by train or by road. All other border
crossings are by road only.
The historic bus service
between Lahore and Delhi, operating four times a week, is now up and running.
It's open to non-residents and although its a symbol of national unity, it's
also the obvious target for disgruntled nationalists looking to continue the
feud.
Getting Around
India's major domestic airline,
the government-run Indian Airlines, has an extensive network. The country's
international carrier, Air India, also operates domestically on the Mumbai
(Bombay)-Delhi, Mumbai-Kolkata, Delhi-Kolkata and Mumbai-Chennai (Madras)
routes. Deregulation has radically improved service and swollen the number of
secondary operators, though several have gone belly up recently. Sahara Indian
Airlines and Jet Airways are probably the most stable of the new competitors.
The Indian Railways system is
deservedly legendary and Indian rail travel is unlike any other sort of travel
on earth. At times rail travel can be uncomfortable and frustrating, but it's
also an integral part of the Indian travel experience. You should try to pick up
the key points of Indian train etiquette as quickly as possible, otherwise
you'll find yourself hopelessly attempting to defend your own private space.
There are a number of different classes and a number of different trains: you
want express or mail trains, but try all the different classes just for the hell
of it. The Indian reservation system is labyrinthine and worthy of
anthropological study, but be patient because it's one of the few bureaucracies
in the country that actually works. When booking tickets, take advantage of the
tourist quota allotment if one exists. You'll find it easier to reserve a seat
this way.
Buses vary widely from state to
state, but there is often a choice of buses on the main routes - ordinary,
express, semi-luxe, deluxe, deluxe air-con and even deluxe sleeper. Government
buses are supplemented by private operators on many routes. Private buses tend
to be faster, more expensive and more comfortable and can make a lot of sense on
longer jaunts. Bus travel is generally crowded, cramped, slow and uncomfortable.
This is the good news. The bad news is the rugby scrum you often need to
negotiate in order to board, and the howling Hindi pop music which blares from
the tinny speakers. Buses are the only way to get to Kashmir and the best way to
get to Nepal from Uttar Pradesh; they are generally faster than trains in
northern Bihar and in large areas of Rajasthan.
You can hire a car and driver
very easily, but you need nerves of steel and excellent karma to consider
driving yourself. Cars are usually rented on a daily basis and come with a
limited number of kilometres per day. You'll probably be responsible for the
driver's expenses, so be sure to clarify how much this is to be each day before
you set off. If you're planning a long trip, it's wise to go for a short spin
with your prospective driver just in case you don't like his braking ability.
Motorcycling around India
(especially on an Enfield Bullet) has become a popular pastime, though it's a
hazardous endeavour and not for the amateur two-wheeler. Bicycles are a great
way to get around towns and can usually be hired for a pittance. Long-distance
touring, however, is not for the faint-hearted or the weak of knee. If you're
thinking of bringing your own bike, think twice about bringing your
state-of-the-art 10-speed unless you want it to be poked, probed and perved at
every time you stop.
Local transport includes buses,
taxis, auto-rickshaws, cycle-rickshaws and tongas (horse-drawn carriages). Taxis
may have meters, but don't expect them to be working in more than a handful of
cities. Three-wheeled auto-rickshaws are generally half the price of a taxi and
allow much better passenger inhalation of diesel fumes. Cycle-rickshaws have all
but disappeared from the centres of major Indian cities but are still an
essential part of the transport network in smaller towns. Be sure to agree on a
fare beforehand.
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